If you’re getting frustrated with your machine, take a deep breath, and go through the following list. (You can click on the images to make them bigger.)
1. When you see this on the back of your fabric, it usually means that the top thread hasn’t been threaded properly, and is probably not completely in the tension disks. Remember to lift the presser foot when you thread your machine. This will open the tension disks, so the thread can go inside them. Re-thread the top and bobbin threads. Be sure you are threading correctly.
2. Adjust your tensions. Set your upper tension at the “normal” setting. It is usually marked on the dial. If not, set it at 3. Thread the machine with a dark thread on top, and a light thread in the bobbin. Then sew with a medium zig-zag stitch.
3. Do you need to adjust your bobbin case tension? Remember, “righty-tighty, lefty-loosey.”
Here
are some pictures of bobbin cases. Your drop-in bobbin also has a
bobbin case, that you can adjust the tension on. They are the plastic
ones on the right.
The top thread should be just a “tick” on the back of the fabric. (See the "Sewing Machines Tensions" page for more details.)
7. Are the feed dogs up? Do you know where your feed dog switch is? Flip the switch, and rotate the hand wheel one complete turn to bring them up. Please don’t try to force them up. On many machines, it just takes one rotation of the hand wheel to bring them back up.
8. Is your bobbin winder switched on? If your machine is locked-up, and you can’t even turn the hand wheel, it may be that your bobbin winder is on. Or if you press the foot control, and the machine makes a noise, but doesn’t sew, it may also be that your bobbin winder is on. Switch it off or tighten the clutch on the hand wheel (on an older machine).
9. If your fabric isn't feeding through the machine, check your presser foot tension, if your machine has one. This controls how tightly the fabric is squeezed between the presser foot and feed dogs. It is usually on the top, left of your machine. You can tell if it’s too loose by lifting and lowering the presser foot lever. You should feel some resistance. Tighten it if it’s too loose.
10. Is the bobbin in the bobbin case correctly? Put the bobbin in so the thread makes a “lazy S” as the thread is pulled into the slit. In other words, you don’t want the thread rolling off the bobbin and straight into the slit. You want the thread to turn back, then go into the slit. Usually, with oscillating or rotary hook systems, when you put your bobbin in the bobbin case and pull the thread, it should rotate clock-wise. Drop-in bobbins will usually rotate counter-clock-wise. Are you using the correct bobbin for your machine? Check the height and width. It should fit snuggly in the bobbin case, but not bind. And it shouldn't be taller than the bobbin case (unless your machine is a Singer Featherweight). Make sure your bobbin isn’t wound loose or sloppy, and that there are no threads dangling out of the center or wrapped around the outside.
11. Check your stitch length. If your machine is “eating” your fabric, you may want to make the stitch length a little longer. Or if you’re starting on a pointed corner, sew on a scrap before feeding the corner under the needle.
12. If you’ve gone through the list, and you’re still not sewing well, you’ll probably need to take your machine to the shop. Your machine may just need a deep cleaning. Or, it’s possible that the timing is off. You’ll know this if the needle thread isn’t picking up the bobbin thread, or if the machine is skipping stitches. What causes the timing to go out is hitting a big pin, or sewing over a really thick seam or breaking a needle. Adjusting the timing is something only a trained professional should do.
Hello Can you help please/ My bobbin/bobbin case will not turn when the needle goes up and down. The side dial turns, the shaft turns right up to the where the two gears come together, but they will not turn as if they were simply disengaged by a clutch. SINGER MERRITT 9608. Its about 25 years old.
ReplyDeleteMy 1913 White VSM is breaking the thread is it the needle? Wrong size for thread? Also I did get it sewing but it was skipping some stitches? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
ReplyDeleteHi Karen,
ReplyDeleteYour machine has a side-loading bobbin, which means the needle goes in side-ways, so the hook can pick-up the thread from the back side of the needle. Put a new needle in, so you’re working with a needle you know is straight and sharp. It should take a regular Schmetz 130 705H size 80/12 needle. When a machine is skipping stitches, the first thing to check is that the needle is in the right position, and pushed all the way up. If your needle is in correctly, and it’s still skipping stitches, the timing is off. Where it’s breaking thread, too, it makes me think the needle may be hitting the hook – needle/hook distance is just one timing setting. Breaking thread could also be because there’s a burr on the hook or on the needle plate. You can polish a burr off with very fine sandpaper 400 to 600 gritt). Or you could just have rotten thread, so use some brand new quality thread.
Good Luck!
my singer model 99 portable circa 1928 after a few stitches jerks the top thread so hard about a foot or so spins off and around the spindle. is this an adjustment or is it time to take it to the shop?
ReplyDeleteMy foot pressor or shank moves side to side along with bar above. I have screw that feel out of the machine and I think it has something to do with it but I don't see where ot goes?
ReplyDeleteHi, I have a Singer Simple 3116 and all of a sudden it will not sew forward, just stays in one place. It will sew backwards, no problem. Any ideas? To take it to shop will cost $100 and the machine only cost me $119. on sale, so if you say just toss, I will. I wanted to donate it to a community center as it is only 2 years old with light use. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteHi Mary,
ReplyDeleteIt could be a couple things. First, remove the needle plate and clean out any lint under the feed dogs.
Then completely re-thread the top and bobbin, making sure there aren’t any thread tangles along the thread path.
Put your stitch selector on a straight stitch, with the stitch length knob on the highest number, then watch what happens. If it’s not sewing forward, try a different stitch. Sometimes the tracer on the pattern cams gets gummed-up, and you need to flip the stitch selector around to help it dislodge. Sometimes it gets caught in one of those forward/backward stitches, or the buttonhole system.
One more thought... On the front of the machine, just to the right side of the bobbin door, is the feed-dog drop switch. Make sure it’s all the way into the feed dog up position. And give it some oil, on the little barrel at the top of the mechanism.
Go that far, and let me know what you find.
he "Sewing Machines Tensions" page for more details.) ... ssewingmachine.blogspot.com
ReplyDeleteI have a Kenmore model 148.19371 that's about 36 years old. I have used it a lot for making clothes and quilts, and it has worked fine with my cleaning and oiling it. But now it looks and sounds like a gear is slipping. The machine runs fine while the bobbin case is out of the shuttle, but putting it back in place causes a grinding noise. I'm able to manually move the left half of the shuttle, the part attached to the machine, and put it back into the correct position so the shuttle can be reassembled, but then it pops back out of place when I try to sew. Do you think there's anything I can do to fix it?
ReplyDeleteI have a Juki. Less than a year old. It sounds like my bobbin is going to spin right out of the casing! It is SO LOUD when I sew it's annoying! I bought the more expensive machine so it would be a nice quiet time sewing. My manual says nothing about oil. My bobbin casing and feed dogs and everything are clean. I'm at my wits end. It's still under warranty but I have no idea where to take it for service! Juki HZL F300 . Thank you for any advice!
ReplyDeleteHi Pam,
ReplyDeleteOn those drop-in bobbin machines, there’s a spring that the bobbin case bounces off of. Sometimes the spring gets bent, and sometimes the plastic bobbin case gets a rough spot. With either problem, the machine makes a banging noise every time it makes a stitch, just as the thread is pulled through the gap between them. You can take the plastic bobbin case out and feel for rough spots, especially on the bump that hits the spring. If you find a rough spot, you can polish it off with a very fine sandpaper (400 to 500 gritt). If the spring is bent, you can usually bend it back into shape. There’s a picture on my blog at this link. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/p/how-to-clean-and-oil-bobbin-and-feed-dog.html Scroll down until you get to “How to Clean and Oil the Bobbin and Feed Dog Area On a Drop-in Bobbin System.” You can click on the picture to make it bigger.
If that’s not the problem, you could be using the wrong bobbin. Those Juki bobbins are very specific to their machine. You can’t use anything but a Juki bobbin in those.
I hope that’s helpful. Keep me posted.
I have a Singer tech tronic 2000. And the bobbin seems to need something to shoot up from.the bottomed to wind the bobbin. I have looked at every you tube video available.
ReplyDeleteI’ve found a YouTube video for you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhsnFTopUpo Basically, you thread the top of the machine just like you always do, right down through the needle. Then open the bobbin cover and put an empty bobbin in place. Move the little switch inside there, over to the middle of the bobbin. Put the thread under the presser foot and secure the end around the thread cutter (behind the presser foot), and push the foot control until the bobbin is wound.
ReplyDeleteI have a singer inspiration and the bobbin isn't turning . I can see the mechanism under it spinning but the bobbin itself isn't spinning.
ReplyDeleteI have a Janine, New home, my excell 4123. Sews like a dream but now won't do the back stitch when I press the switch. Is there something I can do to fix this.
ReplyDeleteHi Jeri,
ReplyDeleteMost likely, the mechanism is frozen with old oil. If that’s the case, you can use WD-40 to remove the old oil. When you look at the open bottom of the machine, and push the back stitch button, watch what moves. Follow the mechanism from the button to the feed dogs and spray WD-40 along the whole path. Then help the mechanisms to move by hand or with a screwdriver, until the button will do it by itself. Then you have to remove the WD-40. Here’s a link on my blog about how to use and remove the WD-40. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/2014/12/using-wd-40-on-sewing-machines.html
Thanks so much for sharing this awesome info! I am looking forward to see more posts by you!
ReplyDeletesize of skips
I have a bernette 66 it froze up so I took it apart and found the bobbin froze up. I fixed that, put it back together and then the timing was off. I fixed that and now the belt keeps popping off and the bobbin case keeps jumping out of place. Please help
ReplyDeleteHi Demaris,
ReplyDeleteMost of the time, when the bobbin case jumps out, it’s because of a defective bobbin. Try to run the machine with the bobbin case in, and no bobbin. If it still jumps out, you’ve probably scrambled something. If it doesn’t , use a different bobbin. A metal 15 class Singer bobbin works better than the plastic bobbins that come with the machine, but they can get bent. And the plastic bobbins get rough edges. Throw out the bad bobbins so you don’t have the same problem again.
As for the belt... I wonder if the motor mount worked loose? Does the motor move around? If so, set the belt tension (not too tight and not too loose) and tighten the bolts on the motor mount. Then make sure there’s no debris getting caught in the belt. I’ve seen some pretty impressive lint balls that get caught in the belt and it makes a terrible racket.
There are certain things, like adjusting the timing, that only a trained tech should attempt. There are several timing settings: needle-hook distance, thread passage, loop lift, return motion, feed dogs and needle bar. They all need to work together. Generally, if something is froze-up, we don’t need to take anything apart, just work some WD-40 in, and that will take care of it. We see machines that get scrambled because a person doesn’t know what they’re doing, and we can’t always unscramble them. So, before you go any further, ask yourself if it would be better to pay a professional.
I have a Kenmore sewing machine that is about 15 years old and it has always worked well, I clean it and oil it regularly when it is in use. I pulled it out to work on a Halloween costume for my daughter and the bobbin is not turning at all. At first I thought it was a timing issue but I took out the bobbin and its casings (like I do when I dust it out) and when I turn the wheel for a manual stitch, nothing moves around in there where the bobbin sits. The needle is still going up and down, everything looks normal with everything else but the bobbin is not turning. Any thoughts?
ReplyDeleteHi Lizzie,
ReplyDeleteSounds like either a gear is broken or a screw is loose. It’s more likely that a screw is loose somewhere. Those are pretty good machines. Take off the needle plate and the bottom of the machine and watch what happens as you turn the handwheel. If the gears under the bobbin area are covered, remove the gear box cover and watch what goes on with those gears. If something is just loose, the timing will most likely be off. And timing is something you’ll want a sewing machine mechanic to fix for you. If it’s a broken gear, it can be replaced, but again, the timing will have to be set by a professional.
Good Luck with your machine!
help! I have a brother ls2125. I went to sew today and the sewing machine eats the fabric and the top thread gets wound up around the bobbin casing and inside of it. I took off the plate and checked it and nothing was obstructing it and i also looked in at the bobbin and it was fine and there was no loose threads or anything.
ReplyDeleteWhen a sewing machine eats the fabric, it’s usually when we start sewing on a corner. If you sew on a scrap, on a straight edge, then put your corner in right up next to the scrap, it will prevent the machine from eating the fabric. Another good habit to get into is to hold the thread tails for the first 2 or 3 stitches, every time you start sewing. I’ve been in the habit of doing just that for 40+ years.
ReplyDeleteAnother thing that is worth checking, is the needle. When you’re having trouble with your sewing machine, it’s a good idea to start with a new needle – it could be dull, broken or bent. And be sure you use the right size needle. If the needle is for thicker fabrics, and you’re sewing on thin fabrics, it will push the fabric into the needle hole and jam it.
I hope there’s something here that will help.
I have a Brother that is about 25 years old. It sews okay, but the bobbin clutch will not engage so I can wind a bobbin. Initially I thought the inner wheel had been overtightened when the bobbin winding had finished. I had my husband try to turn it for me, but it would not budge for him either, not even with the screw removed - and I checked to make sure he was turning it in the correct direction. Do you have any ideas about what the problem might be and how to fix it?
ReplyDeleteHi Mindy,
ReplyDeleteIf the handwheel is stuck, it won’t disengage to wind a bobbin. When I get a stuck handwheel, I use two pieces of grippy shelf liner. One is wrapped around the big outer wheel and the other is wrapped around the small, inner knob. Then I use a pair of channel locks to grip the inner knob, and twist with all my might. That usually gets it un-stuck for me. Someone else suggested getting two strap wrenches to wrap around each part and twist in the opposite direction. I’d like to get a pair of those and try it someday. I have a post about how I had to resort to violence to get one off. Here’s a link to that post. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/2013/04/the-wrong-oil.html
Graduate 2 model 724 sees great but on stitch other than straight the hand wheel pops in and out. Any solutions? Thank you L
ReplyDeleteIf the handwheel is popping in and out, that can’t be good. The first thing I’d check is the bobbin winder clutch. Has the center knob been removed? If so, has it been put back together correctly? It goes back together with the inner ring nubs facing outward. Here’s a picture and instructions for putting it back together correctly. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/p/bobbin-winder-clutch.html
ReplyDeleteIf that’s not it, I wonder if there’s a loose collar on the upper shaft. To check that, grab the upper shaft and see if it will wiggle right to left. Or, maybe the worm gear or the vertical shaft gear are broken, and that might give it some wiggle.
On those old Singers, they’re generally not worth putting the money into them for major repairs, like replacing a gear. But if it’s just the bobbin winder clutch or tightening a collar, it should be something that could be taken care of with a basic service.
I hope you’re able to get your machine going.
Thank you for your prompt response. It is not the bobbin winder clutch. It appears the whole upper shaft is moving when cams are ingaged. I will check for loosened parts. Worm gear hard to see without removing lots of parts. Nice clean machine and great cabinet, I was hoping to clean it up and pass along as cheaply as possible. I will go through it again and get back with you. There wasn't anything like this problem anywhere. Thanks again. L
ReplyDeleteI have a Brother that I haven't used in a couple of years. The tension dial is stuck on the highest setting and will not turn. I tried oiling it but no success. Any ideas?
ReplyDeleteI’m assuming that your machine is a newer Brother with the tension dial on top. Sounds like that tension dial may have taken a hit. It may be bent on the inside, and is just stuck. Those newer Brothers are hard to get inside of. I think your best bet is to force it from the outside. When I can’t get a grip on something, I’ll use a kitchen gripper. If you can’t get it with a kitchen gripper, it would be better for you to take it to a shop than to try to get inside yourself.
ReplyDeleteMy friend has a Singer Talent 3321. It's 4 years old and lightly used. Most recently, it made a clicking noise when sewing. I think I isolated the noise to the outer (metal) bobbin case (the one that rotates when sewing). We changed the needle, re-threaded the machine, changed the bobbin, checked for debris around the bobbin case. Still clicking. Took the bottom plate off the machine; didn't see anything of note. Took the foot plate off. Couldn't remove the bobbin case without removing screws that were on too tight for me to remove. It sewed fine, so we just used it and hoped it would keep going. Any other suggestions? Thanks. Judy
ReplyDeleteHi Judy,
ReplyDeleteOn a drop-in bobbin, there’s a spring under the needle plate, on the right/front. There’s a bump on the bobbin case that will bounce off of it. If that bump, or the spring, gets damaged, it will make a “thump,” every time the thread goes between it.
Another thought is that the needle may be hitting the needle plate or the hook (the part that rotates around the bobbin case). To check if it’s hitting the needle plate, remove the presser foot and watch what happens to the needle when you turn the handwheel. To check if it’s hitting the hook, remove the needle plate and watch what happens when you turn the handwheel. When the needle and hook point come together, there should be one thread distance between them. If the needle is hitting either one, the needle/hook distance needs to be adjusted. It’s a pretty simple adjustment. If that’s what it turns out to be, I could try to walk you through it.
Let me know what you find out.
Hello,
ReplyDeleteI have an old frister and rossmann cub 3. It has been serviced professionally in the last couple of years but I haven't really used it since. I just got it out to start using, and have found that when sewing straight stitch, the line of stitching drifts to one side - every couple of inches, the machine puts in a couple of diagonal stitches as if it is sewing zigzag, or it just drifts and looks a little wobbly. My tension seems otherwise to be okay, I'm just not getting a nice straight line of sewing, and I'm not sure what I've done wrong!
Thank you,
Rachel
Hi Rachel,
ReplyDeleteI’ve only worked on a couple of those machines, but haven’t seen that kind of problem with them. However, two of them had broken gears. It seems to think it’s in zig-zag, but only occasionally. Is the diagonal stitch regularly spaced? If so, it could be a broken gear on top. Otherwise, It’s likely that the mechanisms in the top of the machine are gummed-up. Remove the top cover and check the gears up there. If neither gear is broken, try some WD-40. Here’s a link on using WD-40 on sewing machines. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/2014/12/using-wd-40-on-sewing-machines.html
I hope you’re able to get your machine sewing again!
My Singer 99 locked up I think due to a bobbin mess. I've see a piece of thread between the bobbin housing and somewhere underneath but don't see how to disassemble the lower hosting, any thoughts?
ReplyDeleteGenerally, if that machine freezes up, it’s from old oil that has gummed-up. I wouldn’t disassemble the hook area. I’d spray all of the shafts and joints with WD-40. Here’s a link for how to use WD-40 on your machine. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/2014/12/using-wd-40-on-sewing-machines.html
ReplyDeleteThanks, I can also see some very small pieces of thread that look to be caught in the bobbin casing
DeleteI have an old Kenmore 1680 that has been a work horse for me. It has recently started making a knocking noise from the bobbin area. I cleaned it really well and it seems to run smoothly without the bobbin case, but as soon as I put the bobbin case in (with or w/o a bobbin) the knocking noise starts. Is it worth trying to find a replacement bobbin case (do they wear out?) or should I try something else?
ReplyDeleteI do like those old Kenmores, but they can be clatter buckets. The 1680 has a drop-in bobbin with the crazy toggle bobbin case. I’ve tried to order those from Brewer, and they’re not available. You might be able to get one from Sears. But I imagine the cost is pretty high. Another option is to find another old Kenmore from the thrift store. The front-loading or side-loading Kenmores have a better stitch quality. And you can find them for less than $25. Kenmores are my favorite thrift store machine. They are solid work horse machines.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the input. I received this machine as a high school graduation present so it has sentimental value. I may see if I can find a replacement bobbin. I guess after 35 years, I may need a new machine! I am happy that this is the first real issue I have had with it, other than the buttonholer never worked well.
DeleteHi, Thanks so much for your website! I have a Sears Kenmore 385-19233 computerized machine, with a "fried motherboard" (trusted repair shop diagnosis.) This machine served me really well for years, and produces one of the nicest satin stitches I've ever seen (including a 7.0mm stitch width.) Replacing the motherboard will cost more than I paid for the machine, if the repair shop does it. Any suggestions? Is this a part that I could possibly put in myself? I just hate to give up on this machine, but am not sure what to do? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteHi KCM,
ReplyDeleteThose Kenmores are pretty great machines. But I DO think you could replace the whole machine for something just as good, for maybe a little more than the price of a new motherboard. Maybe a Juki HZLK85? They’re around $500 and have the wider stitch width. You may find a Janome that’s comparable, too – Janome made your machine.
No, I wouldn’t try to replace the motherboard yourself. For one thing it’s kinda complicated to get everything out, then back in the way it should be. And… When we replace a motherboard on a Bernina, (where I work) we don’t charge any service fees – just because the part is so expensive. I don’t know how Sears/Kenmore does it. But you’d probably pay the same amount to have it replaced as you would to just buy the part.
Thanks so much for this advice! You're right about the expense--Sears won't do it, and my repair shop researched the cost of the part and found that it would be just about what I paid for the machine in the first place. Thanks for the suggestion on the Juki--that's a brand I have never considered. It's still hard for me to just donate the machine to a thrift store, because it sewed such a nice stitch (and amazing satin stitch) and is still in wonderful shape, except that it has no "brain" so is totally useless. Kinda sad.
DeleteSo glad you nixed the idea of donating this machine to a thrift store. Bad Karma for passing along a problem like that!
DeleteYes, I know. Our old machines are like a part of the family. But don’t donate it, because someone else will buy it and go through the same thing you did. You can set it up as a vintage decoration in you home.
ReplyDeleteI have a husquvarna ruby and when sewing the thread bunches up in the bobbin area , then the machine makes a weid noise can you give me any suggestions
ReplyDeleteUsually when the thread bunches up on the bottom of the fabric, the top thread isn’t in the upper tension correctly. But if it’s bunching up inside where the bobbin is, you need to remove the needle plate and clean inside there.
ReplyDeleteTo remove that needle plate, first remove the clear plastic bobbin cover and the bobbin. Then remove the metal needle plate. To do this, put a small screwdriver in the slot at the back of the needle plate and push it towards you. It doesn’t lift up, it slides towards you. Then you can remove the plastic bobbin case and clean the lint out. Inspect the plastic bobbin case to see if there are any rough spots. If there are, you can remove them with a very fine sandpaper (about 400-500 grit), but be very gentle. It should only take about 4 gentle swipes with the sandpaper. Then put a drop of oil in the center hole and on the feed dog linkages, which are the joints that move when you turn the handwheel. The hook is the pointed part that rotates around the bobbin case. Check that point for burrs. If the point is rough, sand it gently with the same very fine sandpaper. Then put it all back together.
I hope you can get your machine sewing again.
thank you
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for your tips. This has been so helpful. I otherwise would have taken my brother Innovis 610 in for a costly service. It was the tension, of course! After following all of your tips on what to check before taking it to be serviced it seems to be working again. Very much appreciated. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteI have a kenmore 385.16524000, that will not sew in reverse. I cannot get the front panel off to see if it just needs cleaning. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
ReplyDeleteWe try not to take the front off of a machine if we don’t need to. You need to get into the bottom of the machine. The problem is connected to the feed linkage. If you can flip the switch to drop the feed dogs, watch what happens under the machine. There’s a bullet shaped part that moves in and out of a tube. I couldn’t find a picture of your machine on Google Images, and I don’t have all of them memorized. But on some it’s a plastic tube and on others it’s a metal tube. You need to get some WD-40 worked into that area of the machine. Here’s a link to using WD-40 on your machine. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/2014/12/using-wd-40-on-sewing-machines.html It also helps to heat the part with a hair dryer. There’s a part that should snap into place when it’s time to sew in reverse, but it’s gummed up. If you watch underneath, you may see a part that moves slowly when you push the reverse button. That’s got to snap in, not take its time.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for your help. I will try that.
ReplyDeleteGreetings,
ReplyDeleteI have been using a baby lock creative pro (purchased at auction for $35) Has been a fantastic second machine, but now after many years of use, the bobbin casing is constantly coming unseated. The casing is sloppy and casing spring is not able to stop the bump. There was significant scaring, so have sanded the burs off, sadly to no avail. My question to you would be, is it worth while to replace the casing at this stage...or should I bury it in the back yard...and go shopping.
Hi Rosie,
ReplyDeleteSometimes, replacing the bobbin case will take care of the problem. However, with it coming “unseated,” it’s more likely to be the bobbin case retainer. There’s a finger-like metal piece on the left/back of the bobbin area that sometimes needs to be re-positioned or bent downward to hold the bobbin case better. The bobbin case needs to have a little wiggle room for the thread to pass between the bump and the spring. If adjusting the retainer doesn’t help, then you’d need a new bobbin case.
Will definitely try to do an adjustment. Many thanks for taking time to offer a suggestion. Much appreciated.
ReplyDeleteHey? Maybe you can help before I take the machine back in. I have a Juki F300 and just spent $150 to get it fixed. Bobbin case issue, the only plastic part on Juki Exceeds. Anyway, was sewing fine, on spandex, zooming along. I ran out of top thread, went and put on a new spool and bam! I have no stitches. NO matter what I do, rethread, change the spool, machine on an off, change bobbin thread, rethread. Nada, no stitches, can the timing go out for no apparent reason? I didn' break a needle, go over heavy fabric, just ran out of thread. Is there something I"m no trying before it goes back in. I've only sewn on the "fixed" machine for a day, but it worked fine for that time until...it didn't.Help..Den
ReplyDeleteOne more thing on the Juki, I use Gutterman all thread and the BP 70/11 needles, never had an issue. WHen I thread the needle I don't feel any tension tug before this happened, how to make sure the thread is caught in the tension grippers?
ReplyDeleteHi Den,
ReplyDeleteWhen the presser foot is up, the tension disks are open. When you put the presser foot down, they close. That’s when you should be able to feel a tug. So, if all you did was run out of thread, I wonder if the thread got stuck on one side or the other of the tension disks? But that still wouldn’t explain why the machine isn’t forming a stitch. Are you positive that the needle is in correctly? The flat side goes to the back, and make sure the needle didn’t slip down. If the needle is in the wrong position, that will throw the timing off.
Holly Molly! $150 for a service! That’s criminal! We’re still charging $70.
Keep me posted.
Yep. All of the above. I checked everything. I've used this machine daily for about 3 yrs and just recently bought the f600 since I love the features of the Exceed line. Reaced needle, Needle in correctly, thread rethreaded a dozen times as well as bobbin, turned machine on and off thinking maybe a re-boot, and still no stitches. Bobbin case moves but doesnt pick up top thread to create a stitch, its driving me nuts. So I guess my expensive repair guy gets the machine back. One day of use, no problem, now dead again. I think $150 should last a bit longer. Right? Must be timing.
ReplyDeleteI have a question and don't know if this is the correct area to enter it, but here goes. I have a Brother SE-270d Sewing/Embroidery machine and everything seems to work well except the bobbin winder. I follow all the directions and push the button, machine makes a noise like it is winding the bobbin but the bobbin is not moving, shaft on winder is not moving. Is there anywhere I can look for directions on how to remove machine cover to see if the o-ring has deteriorated or come off or something.
ReplyDeleteHi Debi,
ReplyDeleteYou don’t want to open this machine yourself. There’s too many cables and computer components, and screws in weird places. The only suggestion I have is to try to turn the bobbin winder spindle by hand. If you’re not able to turn it by hand, it’s probably frozen-up. Try putting a little WD-40 on the spindle and let it work in. Try to turn it by hand and keep working it until it’s un-frozen. If that doesn’t work, take it to a Brother dealer. We had one of those in the shop last week with tension disks that wouldn’t close, and The Boss didn’t want to touch it. And he’s been doing this for 30 years.
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ReplyDeleteI have a White 3300 embroidery machine, she's been good to me but the last time I stitched something thick it birdnested, so I took the thread out along with the bobbin, checked the bobbin case for thread underneath then put it back and now the upper thread won't catch the bottom thread, been sewing for years never seen anything like it. It has the plastic type of bobbin and I have looked everywhere online and I am just beside myself that I really messed something up with her. Is there hope? Should I buy a new bobbin case or do you think it's more serious. Hubby's not too happy with me cause I bought a lot of embroidery designs and now my machine is sick.
ReplyDeleteIt sounds like your timing is off. First, put a new needle in. If the needle is bent or not pushed all the way up, it will throw the timing off. If a new needle doesn’t take care of the problem, the timing is off, and you’ll need to take it to the shop for that.
ReplyDeleteMy Singer 758 flywheel is hard to turn, it is harder to turn at one point that it is the other 340 degrees of the wheel. The machine has been in storage for several years, and I decided it just needed oil, but it got just a minimally bit better after being oiled. I am afraid to use it for fear of ruining the gears.
ReplyDelete
ReplyDeleteSounds like it could be a broken gear. The only way to know if there’s a broken gear, is to take the top and bottom off of the machine and take a look. There are 4 nylon gears in that machine. There’s a set in the top/right and another set in the bottom on the drive shaft. If you’ve got a broken gear, you’re likely to be told to put your money into another sewing machine, than to replace a broken gear. The reason is that when one gear goes, there are 3 more that are likely to follow.
I do not see a broken gear, but is likely I do not know, There is no gear shearings, broken bits coming off in the case top or bottom, all the lub places are crumbly orangy brown. The machine looks quite good inside otherwise.
ReplyDeleteThat sounds great. So if there’s crumbly, orangy brown stuff in there, that may mean that the old grease or oil has hardened and needs to be removed. We use WD-40 at the shop to remove the old grease and oil. Here’s a link to using WD-40 on your machine. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/2014/12/using-wd-40-on-sewing-machines.html
ReplyDeleteI have a Singer Sew Mate 5400. It's my first machine trying to learn on my own. I turned the wheel both ways multiple times before I read not to do that.What happens if you turn the wheel in the wrong direction? My machine isn't picking up the bobbin thread and also makes a noise then gets stuck/locks/jams up so I need to manually turn the wheel to free it.
ReplyDeleteWhen you turn the handwheel backwards, it makes the thread tangle up in the bobbin area. Your machine has an oscillating hook system. It has the best stitch quality, but the bobbin and feed dog areas need to be cleaned and oiled about every 3 hours of sewing time.
ReplyDeleteIf you’re machine isn’t picking up the bobbin thread, the timing is off. The first thing to check is the needle. Is the needle in with the flat side to the back, and is it pushed all the way up? The second thing to check is the threading. Remove both threads and re-thread. If your needle is in correctly and the machine is threaded correctly and it’s still not picking up stitches, you’ll need a tech to re-set your timing.
I have a 32 year old Bernina 930 that sews almost like new in every way. The hand/flywheel makes a light clicking sound that is more like something tint in the wheel than a machanical clicking. Do you have any idea what that might be?
ReplyDeleteHi Iris,
ReplyDeleteThat Bernina 930 is an awesome, powerful machine! I have one at home.
The sound is probably the needle up clutch, and nothing to worry about. The 930 has it’s own sound, with a “whirr-and-ca-chink” every time you stop sewing. It’s not as efficient as the needle up clutches on our modern machines, but was a pretty great thing at the time.
If it’s not the needle-up clutch, it may have thread wrapped around the inside of the handwheel – I’ve seen that a few times. Or it may have a pin lodged in there somewhere. If you could blow it out with an air compressor, you might dislodge anything that ‘s in the wrong spot.
it is more like very light rattling WHILE stitching and stops when stitching stops. I sounds more like the needle inside option. I'll try the canned air and let you know.
DeleteHere’s a thought… If I don’t have a felt pad under my spool of thread, the spool rattles. Also, if you use a Singer 15 class bobbin instead of a Bernina bobbin, it’s looser in the center hole and will rattle. Bernina bobbins have “BB” on them or they have 7 holes, where Singer bobbins have 10 holes.
DeleteI hope you’re able to fix the rattle.
Dont know if you remember my post, but have a couple of Juki HZLs, 600 and 300. Expensive repair lasted a day, then after rethreading, no stitches, bobbin thread wasnt being picked uo. Update: my reoair guy said it was out if his league and wrote up warranty referral to Juki in Georgia. So $50 later for shipping UPS, it is now in their hands. My dream machine is at the Juki hospital. Ill let you know what they do once I get it back.
ReplyDeleteWow! That’s pretty serious when the tech has to send it to the Juki hospital. Please let me know what they find out. I hope they get it back to you quickly so you can get back to sewing.
ReplyDeleteHiya, I've got a year old Janome 2212. There's a grinding coming from the race hook when I turn the wheel. I've cleaned and oiled all of the bobbin components.
ReplyDeleteAny ideas?
Hi Meg,
ReplyDeleteI’ve got a couple ideas. We can figure things out by process of elimination. So, #1 is it grinding when the bobbin is in the bobbin case? #2 Is it grinding when the bobbin isn’t in the bobbin case. #3 Is it grinding when the bobbin case is out? #4 Is it grinding when the hook is out?
It could be a bad bobbin (which can be replaced for about 40 cents. It could be a bad bobbin case (which can be replaced for about $3.00). It could be something that’s embedded in the race (which is the ledge that the hook sits on). Sometimes a broken needle gets jammed in the race. If the hook is out and it’s still grinding, it’s probably the driver gear. You can scramble the timing if you loosen the driver gear, so I’d recommend that you take it to the shop for that. Sometimes the top of the race, just below the needle plate, gets broken off.
There’s a spot that freezes up on these type of machines, and it has nothing to do with the bobbin area. There’s a shaft at the top of the machine. Where the eccentric attaches to that shaft, It needs a little WD-40. That can squeal pretty bad when it’s frozen-up.
Let me know what you find out.
The sound was the edge of the race hook scratching in its housing. After cleaning and oiling it still scraped, so I switched the race hook out for an identical one from another machine. Now neither machine has made the noise. I guess whatever was causing it has been dislodged and all is happily oiled.
ReplyDeleteThank you for your help. What a great blog! It gave me the confidence to open the machine up and tinker on my own.
That’s great! I didn’t think about the machine having the wrong hook in it. You did some great detective work!
ReplyDeleteHave fun sewing!
I'm pretty new to sewing so excuse me if I don't explain this very well.
ReplyDeleteI have a Singer 4432, and the bobbin winder refuses to stay in the locked position to wind it. I took the top of the case off, and it seems like when the bottom tire hits the smaller round bit inside the handwheel, the smaller round bit pushes it out like it's spring-loaded or something. Any idea what it could be? I should add this is a brand new bobbin winder assembly since the one that came with it was broken.
My first thought is that the tire on the hub is too big. But my second thought is that there should be a way to adjust the spring mechanism. I don’t have one in front of me to see what’s inside – there’s a lot of different kinds of bobbin winders. If you could send a picture of the bobbin winder assembly, I might be able to see how to adjust it. A lot of times, there’s a screw in a long hole. So you can loosen the screw and slide the bobbin winder one direction or the other.
ReplyDeleteLet me know what you find out.
http://imgur.com/a/2LzCr
DeleteIf you need more pictures let me know.
Got the case off completely and the knobs. There seems to be no adjustment screw anywhere for the spring inside the handwheel. Also took the tire off the old broken winder and put it on the new one, but that didn't change anything. Might just get a separate bobbin winder.
DeleteHi!
ReplyDeleteI have a singer fashionmate. The handwheel turns fine until the little hook at the top of the machine gets to the very top position. Then it gets tight and I have to apply pressure to get the wheel moving again. There's no thread in the machine right now
My first guess is that there's a broken gear somewhere. But, there are so many Singer Fashion Mate models. Some have gears in the bottom and some don't.
ReplyDeleteMy second guess is that something may be getting caught in a belt in the bottom or right end of the machine.
Lay the machine on it's back and remove the bottom plate. See if you can spot a broken gear or chunk of lint. Also, remove the top cover and check the gears up there.
If it's got a broken gear, you'd be better off putting your money into a new machine.
Do you have experience with embroidery programmed machines?
ReplyDeleteYes. What can I help you with?
Deleteis this the same as sewing machine oil? It says singer machine oil all purpose https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YZ1Y06/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
ReplyDeleteYes, that’s a great sewing machine oil!
ReplyDeleteI picked up a huskylock 900 from a thrift store thinking to fix it for my daughter. It is locked up. The hand wheel will turn backward but not forward.Any ideas?
ReplyDeleteHi Machelle,
ReplyDeleteIf it turns backwards but is hard to turn, it may just need to have the old oil removed and re-oil. We’d remove the bottom and left side (so you can get to the take-up lever), spray a lot of WD-40 on all of the shafts and eccentrics, then remove the gunk with an air compressor and re-oil.
If it moves backwards, freely, it could mean a gear is broken, or the loopers are crashing against each other, the needles or something under the needle plate. To check that, remove the needle plate and see if it’s the loopers. If it is, take it to the shop and have the timing re-set. If it’s not, check the gears. You may have to remove a lot of the cover to get to the gear.
Good Luck with your machine!
Hi there! I have a Brother ce8080prw. I have been sewing with it a few years now and never had to adjust it once I found that spot that it sews my heavy fabrics with. Today though it decided to hit my bobbin case and puncture it and no matter what I do (adjusting, rethreading, or cleaning) the bottom thread remains loose like in your first picture or it will start to braid where it catches the loop before it and will continue to do that.
ReplyDeleteWhen that plastic bobbin case gets punctured, you can try to polish it with a very fine sandpaper (about 400 grit). It needs to be smooth where the thread drags across it, and especially at the “bump.” Don’t “sand” it, just gently polish it with a few strokes. If polishing doesn’t work, you may need a new bobbin case.
ReplyDeleteIf it’s looping on the bottom, something is usually amiss with the top tension. Make sure the presser foot is up when you re-thread. When the presser foot is down, the tension disks are closed. Use a flashlight to visually see if the thread is going between the tension disks. Sometimes it looks like the thread is going where it should, but it goes off to the side.
If re-threading doesn’t work, take the upper tension as high as it will go. If that helps, great! If not, there’s something pretty wrong with your upper tension. It’s time to find a Brother dealer.
If the stitch isn’t forming at all, the timing is off.
Good Luck to you!
Hi, I've recently got my late grandmas vintage sewing machine. I oiled it cleaned it. It seems to be working fine, everything works fine. Until I put a bobbin case underneath. Everything gets stuck. And when I remove the bobbin everything runs again. Please help me. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteHi Judith,
ReplyDeleteMy first thought is that maybe you’ve got the wrong bobbin or a damaged bobbin. That would make it jam. Does it work with the EMPTY bobbin case? If yes, that would indicate that the bobbin is the culprit.
If it jams with the empty bobbin case, it’s possible that you’ve got the wrong bobbin case or a damaged bobbin case.
Can you tell me the brand and model of your machine?
Wow thank you for your prompt answer. Makes me more excited �� its a vintage singer machine. The black one with gold flower designs. Tomorrow I'll be buying a new bobbin case. I'll just show the pictures to the store and I'll let you know if it will solve it. Thank you very much, you don't know how happy I am that you answered ����
ReplyDeleteHi, I have a seammaster 6950 sewing machine that was given to me. It worked well at first, but the last time I pulled it out to work on a project, the needle kept getting jammed in the bobbin. I changed the needle, rethreaded the machine, and cleaned and oiled it. I'm not sure what else to look for or try. Can you make any suggestions? Thank you!
ReplyDeleteHi Sally,
ReplyDeleteIf you’ve done all of the basics, and you’re sure your needle is in correctly, the timing may be off. If you turn your handwheel and watch where the needle goes, does it hit something? Are you using the right bobbin? You need a metal, Singer class 15 bobbin for that machine. Be sure it’s not bent or damaged.
Those are my thoughts. Let me know if I’m getting close or give me more info.
Thanks for replying so quickly! I checked my machine again, watching the needle closely, and right before it jams in the bobbin, it seems to slant to the side a little. It was a brand new needle, so could this be a timing issue, like you suggested?
DeleteIf it slants to the side in zig-zag stitch, that could just be the pitch of the fulcrum, and that’s alright. However, if it slants to the side in straight stitch, the parabola is off. That can be caused by a broken worm gear in the top of the machine. Or it can be caused by a pin, or something, that’s caught inside the needle bar area. Remove the left end cover and take the top of the machine off. Then look inside to see what happens when you turn the handwheel.
ReplyDeleteIt doesn't seem to slant in a straight stitch, just the zig zag. I took the left end cover and top off, and to my eye nothing seems to be broken. I can turn the handwheel about 15 or 20 times and then suddenly something will clink and the needle will be caught in the down position and I'll have to take the whole bobbin piece out to get the needle loose. Do you think it's something I need to take to a shop to get looked at?
DeleteYes, it would be a good idea to take it to the shop. But… It will likely cost more than it would for you to go buy a cheap, new machine from Walmart or JoAnn.
ReplyDeleteI wish I could reach through the world wide web and get my hands on it. It kinda sounds like a gear may be broken. It kinda sounds like the return motion timing setting may be off. If it’s jamming with thread in it, it could just be that there’s no upper tension, and the thread is tangling.
If you can find an honest sewing machine tech, who will tell you what the problem is before they rack up a huge bill, then yes, take it to the shop. Where I work, if we can’t fix the machine, we don’t charge you a penny. I’ve heard of other shops that charge $85 just to look at it. If that’s the case, you may want to put your money into another machine.
I do know a shop that will look at it and let me know the problem before they charge me. Hopefully it turns out that it's something that can be fixed without too much hassle. Thank you so much for all your suggestions-I'm so glad I found your blog. You have so much good information on here. Thanks again!
DeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteI Have a Brother XR1300. I have replaced the bobbin casing so it is brand new. I have not been able to sew with it still though because the fabric is being pulled down into the machine. I took it all apart and thoroughly cleaned the machine and it made a few stitches, but jammed again. So I adjusted the tension wheel on the upper thread and it didn't pull the fabric through but it didn't pick up the bobbin thread this time either and the top thread knotted up. So I tightened the tension just a hair again and it pulled the fabric in again and didn't pick up the bobbin thread again. I took the fabric out of the machine and watched the machine again and noticed that the bobbin casing was not moving at all with the machine. It threaded properly but it did not move in order to interlink it with the upper thread. I dont know what I should do? Can you help?
Hi Laura,
ReplyDeleteThe bobbin case shouldn't turn around. The hook turns around the bobbin case. The hook is the point on the metal ring that turns around the bobbin case. If the hook is damaged, that could cause your problems. To check that, remove the bobbin case and feel the hook point with your finger. If it feels rough, you can gently polish it with a very fine sandpaper (about 400 grit).
Another thing that could cause your problem is a damaged needle, or a needle that is too big for the fabric you're sewing on. A size 80/12 universal needle will work for most fabrics and projects. So try putting a brand new needle in and see if that helps.
If neither of those are the problem, your timing may be off just a little bit. There are several timing settings. Needle/hook distance -- which is the space between the hook and the needle, when they meet. Thread passage -- which is the space between your bobbin case and the little spring on the front of the machine. Needle bar height -- the point of the hook should come across the top of the eye of the needle as it comes around on the left side, while you're in a super wide zig-zag. Loop lift -- Does the thread form enough of a loop for the hook to grab it? Feed dog timing -- are the feed dogs under the needle plate when the needle is in the fabric?
Let me know what you figure out.
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI have a Bernina 1001 which I learned recently is a "classic". I had it tuned up a few months ago and have used it very little until this week. I'm making covers for a camping trailer with a linen/cotton blend, Coats Extra Heavy nylon thread, and a Jeans size 18 needle.
Stitching was all going great until the thread bunched up in the bobbin area today. When I got it out, a bit of metalic stuff came out. As I looked at the bobbin case more, I realized it looked like it lined the case as another piece came out.
It's $65 to get a new Bernina case (ouch). My question is whether you think I need to do something to prevent this happening again or is this not so unexpected given the age of my machine and the heavier fabric I'm using. Note: The machine has actually been used relatively lightly for Halloween costumes, etc over the years. This is the first "heavier" project.
Hi Peggy,
ReplyDeleteYou can get a good quality Bernina bobbin case from Brewer Sewing Supply. Brewer is owned by Bernina. The part number is 0060687000, and the retail price on it is $25. You may be able to find it on Amazon or Ebay.
I have never seen a Bernina bobbin case break apart. Are you sure it’s the bobbin case?
I have seen a lot of bad results from using the extra heavy thread in any domestic sewing machine. I recommend that you use 100% polyester Guterman, or Omni machine quilting thread from Superior Threads. If you need it to be extra strong, you can sew over it 2 or 3 times or use the forward/backward straight stitch.
I'll look for that part. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteThe anodized metallic piece ( that came out in two pieces) seems to have come from the inside back of the bobbin case like a gasket. One piece fell out when I got the tangle of threads out. The other piece was inside the case when I removed the bobbin. I'll look inside my new bobbin when I get it.
I'll get the Guterman thread as you suggest; better than to chance this again. The woman at Jo-Ann Fabrics said the Coats Extra Strong nylon was new but thought it would work although she did recommend the Guterman. I went with Coats as nylon was suggested by sailrite.com where I've been watching a number of great how-to videos. But then they use industrial machines themselves.
Thank you! I'll report back when my 4 cushions are covered. 1 and 1/2 are done.)'Two are 12 x 60; row are 24 x 60. We were given a roll Schumacher fabric for the project that was picked up for $8 at a garage sale.
Peggy,
ReplyDeleteThe metal piece in the bottom of the bobbin case is a “back-lash washer.” You can sew just fine without it. It’s supposed to prevent the bobbin from spinning too far. Or you can get a replacement part #006069.53.10 (stop spring C). Or use a Magic Bobbin Genie.
Looks like I found the part http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/bobbin-case-bernina-1001-sewing-machine.aspx. And it has a picture of the mettalic piece inside. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteI didn't see your post about the washer before I sent mine. Thank you for that additional information! Did seem weird that I'd have to get a whole new case... I'll see how it goes without it today and look for a replacement in the meantime
ReplyDeleteThank you! You are awesome
When threading upper thread on my singer, I cannot engage thread in bobbin tension wheel. It is within machine so I have no control over this, but know it is happening since my upper thread tension remains loose. Any suggestions????
ReplyDeleteMy wife's 30 year old Bernina Record 930 recently had a capacitor on the power board fail. With the help of a 930 service manual, I was able to disassemble the machine and remove the PCB, remove & replace the capacitor, and reassemble the machine.
ReplyDeleteI thought it was sewing sweet & smooth until she pointed out that the machine now takes 3 additional stitches after she removes her foot from the foot control! From Hero to Dunce! I can only conclude that I must have knocked something out of adjustment in the process.
Since there is no Bernina service tech anywhere near our rural Texas location, I've been searching the internet without much success. Most have never heard of a 930 adding those 3 additional stitches... Any suggestions?
Hi Gary,
DeleteI have a Bernina 930, and it is an amazing machine! I love it!
I believe the 3 extra stitches has to do with the needle up clutch. Sometimes it gets gummed-up. It’s located at the top, back on the right side of the machine. If you can get it loosened up with some WD-40, that might take care of the problem. But you’ve really got to get all of the WD-40 out of there when you’re done.
My second thought is that the needle up stop on the upper shaft is out of position. There’s a light that shines through a hole that tells the machine when the needle is in the highest position. Maybe the light isn’t getting through the hole.
Let me know what you figure out.
With your help, I'm a Hero again! While I was never able to confirm that I had found the "needle up clutch" or the "needle stop on the upper shaft," you did inspire me to "go back in, full bore."
DeleteIn may exploration, I reheated a capacitor solder-joint that might have been a "cold joint." But I honestly believe that previously, when I re-installed the PCB board, I had failed to be sure that the lever the fits into the hinged armature core that pushes the lever back toward the center of the machine when the magnetic core is energized had not been engaged properly! Inserted it carefully this time and all is right with the world! Honey is a Hero! Thank you. Because of your help, it is working great again. (And now I am permitted to touch the 930, beyond just oiling it!) :-)
Wonderful! You’re the Man!
DeleteI’m honestly not sure what you did, but I’m so glad it worked.
Keep up the good work!
My Bernina 230E back stitch does not work. I tried everything cleaning bobbin case, feed dog up/down, etc. It acted up after working with terry cloth. Can't afford cost of driving a hour away or service cost. Please help!
ReplyDeleteI have a Bernina 230E, the back stitch stop working. I tried everything including cleaning bobbin case, feed dog, etc. I cannot afford service fee nor driving a hour away. Please help!
ReplyDeleteHi Jonagwen,
DeleteMy main machine is a Bernina 230, and I know that the back-stitch button gets worn out. What I’ve done is just push the top of the button instead of the bottom of the button, and that’s working for me – until I can find the time to repair it. But… if it’s a matter of the feed dog linkage inside the machine, being gummed-up, you may need to take it to the shop.
I recently bought a singer 500a. It sews okay, but the flywheel is loose and I need to turn it to get the machine to sew. Is there a way of tightening the flywheel?
ReplyDeleteHi Winnie,
ReplyDeleteThe handwheel on your machine will have a little “play” in it. That’s just the way the gears are set up on that particular machine. Unless it’s moving in and out of the machine. If that’s the case, there are collars along the upper shaft that may be loose.
If you need to help the machine get started, it’s just because it’s an old machine, and it’s tired. The motor could be re-built to give it more power. It also may be the foot control that is tired. Sometimes putting a new foot control on it will bring it back to life. But the shafts and linkages will have old oil that has hardened, and that would also need to be removed. I haven’t had much success with reviving the old Singer “Rocketeers,” like yours.
There’s a group on the Vintage Sewing Machine Board that are a wealth of knowledge when it comes to the old Singers. Here’s a link: https://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/ You might get some good advice from them.
I have the Baby Lock Jazz. It is only 6 months old. I have had tension issue from the start. The shop had to adjust timing in the first 2 weeks. The hand wheel now is binding. What could be causig this.
ReplyDeleteHi Wendy,
ReplyDeleteThe first thing that comes to mind, is those darn, plastic bobbin cases. They jump and bind and get all scarred up. Have you taken the needle plate off and looked inside?
If you’ll use a vertical spool pin, it should improve your tension. I know they say it depends on how the thread is wound onto the spool, but those horizontal spool pins really create a drag. If you’re using a cone of thread, us a spool pin that sits on the table behind your machine, that draws the thread straight up.
My second thought is that when the bobbin winder is flipped to the “on” position, the handwheel won’t turn. It’s a clutch that shifts from bobbin winding to sewing.
I hope you’re able to get your machine sewing.
Hi thanks for your reply. I have taken the plate off looked inside, found a few threads down in the gears, which I removed with tweezers and a crochet hook. That did help with the hand wheel drag. I do use the vertical spool pin. Got you on the clutch and it's not engaged. For the life of me I can not get this machine to make quality stitches. Tesnion is always off. I put different colors in top and bottom this morning and ran through the dial starting at zero. The stitch quality is as good as it gets at a 1 or 2, believe it or not, but the bottom thread will still show on the top always. At normal setting of 3 to 4 same thing, thread on the top. When I sew a straight stitch I set it at about a 2 which seems low to me, and stitches never seem tight. Then when I free motion quilt on this machine I have to set the tension all the way up to 7 or 8 to keep the top thread from showing on the backside, and will often shred or break needles at this high tension. Top thread still shows on the back at this setting but not as bad. These 2 extremes in tension, along with the insanity of thread showing, lead me to believe something is wrong with this machine. I can make this work on my inexpensive Brother machine with inexpensive thread. Please advise with your thoughts. This machine has not been pleasent to sew on.
DeleteHave you adjusted the bobbin case tension? Some people will have two bobbin cases – one for regular sewing and one for free-motion quilting (or embroidery). Sounds like for regular sewing, you need to tighten the bobbin case tension. Then for free-motion quilting, you need to loosen the bobbin case tension. It might be worth having two bobbin cases. The tensions are made adjustable, so you can get a good stitch on different fabrics and applications. When I’m piecing, sewing Velcro, free-motion quilting, sewing on stretchy fabrics, etc., I’m always changing the tensions. Aurafil thread is a different tension than Guterman Poly or Metler Silk-finish cotton threads. I sew on Berninas at home, but play with lots of different tensions at the shop. Sometimes we get a customer who wants us to set their tension for some particular thread or fabric. Spandex is the worst! Double needle on Spandex is even harder. But it can be done -- on most machines.
ReplyDeleteWith some machines, the needle/hook distance (a timing setting) is variable. The needle bar can wiggle forward and backwards as it sews, so there’s no way to control that timing setting. If you can grab the needle bar and wiggle it forward and backward, that’s just asking for a sloppy stitch. Some machines have a huge needle hole in the needle plate – another sloppy stitch problem because the fabric isn’t supported as the stitch is formed. Thread drags on a worn, plastic bobbin case. Metal is always better. It seems like sewing machines are being made cheaper and cheaper. There are a couple machines I won’t even touch. The Brother with the thread cartridge, and there are a couple machines out there with plastic hooks. I’ll just tell them not to put any money into the machine and they’d be better off going to a thrift store and buying an old, metal Kenmore.
Sounds like you’ve got a very temperamental sewing machine. But you’ve jumped in and have been experimenting with the tensions. That’s a good thing to do. Get comfortable with it, and if it doesn’t work, take it back and get your money back. Any reputable dealer will refund your money on a bad machine. We took back 2 Bernettes in one day, just a couple weeks ago. They both traded up for a Bernina, which I’m sure they’ll be much happier with.
Keep me posted.
I recently bought a Pfaff 2056 and had it serviced (oiled and greased) by our local sewing machine repair place. It came back with the foot pedal not engaging the motor until it's almost flat on the floor then the machine goes 80 mph. I want to call the repair shop to have them take a look at it again, but I want to have an idea of what's wrong with it before I call just in case they try to pull the wool over my eyes. Thank you. You calmed my nerves when you to explained about my Singer 500A back in November 2017.
ReplyDeleteHi Winnie,
ReplyDeleteIt sounds like foot control was probably cleaned while it was in the shop. Maybe they did the sewing while the foot control was apart, and maybe they don’t realize they put it back together wrong. I expect they’ll just have to take it apart again, make a small adjustment, then put it back together correctly. Inside some foot controls is a “potentiometer.” It adjust how far the pedal needs to go down before power goes to the machine. There’s also a capacitor that can go bad, and can cause that type of problem. Some capacitors can be easily replaced, and others can mean you’d need a new foot control. Definitely take it back and have them make it right.
Good luck to you!
I've got a Universal KTBR. It was cleaned and repaired this past summer and sewed beautifully -- until I accidentally pushed the foot control to fast. After that it wouldn't pick up the thread from the bobbin. I meant to bring it to a repair shop but months after putting it away, I pulled it out just to play around and it sewed perfectly again! Except then I did the same exact thing -- hit the foot control too hard accidentally and now... same thing, sigh, won't pick up the bobbin thread. Ever heard of something like this?
ReplyDeleteHi Jen,
ReplyDeleteThe only explanation I can come up with is that the needle might have slipped out of position. So, just try putting a new needle in, and make sure it’s pushed all the way up. Then re-thread the top and bottom threads and see if that works.
Good Luck to you!
Hi there, I hope to tap into your knowledge today. My machine is only a few years old (Janome Sewist S52S) and usually runs lovely but recently when I put my foot on the pedal it makes an odd noise and sometimes doesn't go, then when it is going, sometimes it goes fast then slow without me changing the pressure. I expected the bobbin area to be full of lint, it was, so I cleaned it out, oiled it and it worked OK for about an hour, then did it again. And still does. Any idea please? Thank you, Julie.
ReplyDeleteHi Julie,
ReplyDeleteThere’s a couple things that come to mind. If a machine is making a strange noise, and going fast then slow, it could be gummed-up on the inside shafts. If that is the case, we’d need to go in deep and remove the old oil, and re-oil. Janomes have a reputation for frozen needle bars. In some of these machines, they use a grease that’s more like wax. It’s like they put it in there on purpose so you’d have to bring it to the shop. It doesn’t stay grease, it becomes a wax that has to be dissolved and chiseled out.
It could also be the belt. But not very likely if it’s only a few years old.
If you have small children in your home, it could have a pin (or 20) stuck in the mechanisms somewhere. Little kids LOVE to put pins inside any hole they can see. It’s just part of their learning process. My 3 year old did it. You would not believe how many machines we get with a ton of pins inside.
Whenever you have a drop-in bobbin, you have to consider if the bobbin case has been damaged. If it makes a “thump” noise every time you make a stitch, it’s the bobbin case. Sometimes we can polish the bobbin case and make it work again. Other times we have to replace it.
You also have to wonder, on a lower end Janome/Brother machine, if the hook is plastic and damaged. If the hook is plastic and damaged, throw the machine away and buy another one. It’s not a machine that you want to pay the price of the machine, just to have it serviced. And you don’t want to send it to the thrift store, just to frustrate someone else.
There’s my thoughts. Let me know if there’s any other questions.
I have a Husqvarna Viking Emerald 183, which sews beautifully, except for the bottonholes. The 2 sides look nice, but they don't meet. The machine sews the bottom bar tack, then moves up the left side, then skips about 1/8 inch, then does the top bar tack, comes down the right side, and does another bar 1/8 inch short of where it started. I tried adjusting the "stitch balance" dial on the right side of the machine, even taking that cover off to see what was going on. But while turning that dial moved a bar inside, it didn't have any effect on the stitch. Can you shed any light on this? Thanks. Mary
ReplyDeleteHi Mary,
ReplyDeleteThat is pretty strange. Trying the stitch balance was a great idea.
Is the needle going down in that 1/8” area, or does it completely skip over that area?
If it’s just skipping over that area, I would suspect that there’s a computer glitch in the buttonhole system. If so, you’d need to take it to a Husqvarna/Viking dealer.
If the needle is going down, but not stitching, you might try a bigger needle (size 90/14), and make sure it’s pushed all the way up, with the flat side to the back. When you make buttonholes, there’s usually some stabilizer between the fabric, and I wonder if the thickness or the drag of the stabilizer, might make it skip stitches.
Let me know what you figure out.
After closer inspection, what is happening is that the machine makes the bar tack on the bottom, then zig zags up the left side, then moves to the right and does a straight stitch down but ends it short of the bar tack 1/8", then zigs up the right side, past the left side by 1/8", and does a bar tack. So it is forming a perfect buttonhole except that the sides don't meet. I have tried different fabric thicknesses, different sized needles, and different lengths and widths of the buttonhole. I saw on another forum that a woman has the same model machine, and the same problem. She even posted pictures of the same malformed buttonhole. She finally said it is now working. She said she thinks the buttonhole foot was hanging up on the accessory case, and removed it for a quilting extension table, and also that she now uses only the vertical thread spool. But I always use the vertical spool, and I tried with and without the accessory case, and also supporting the buttonhole attachment, but nothing seems to help. I wonder if this is a computer problem common to the Emerald 183. If this costs too much to fix, I wonder if I would be better off buying a new machine. This is very frustrating. I really appreciate your ideas.
ReplyDeleteOne other thought… Are the feed dogs coming up high enough to carry the fabric through? That is usually pretty easy to adjust. BUT, that machine’s feed dogs come up at an angle, so better traction isn’t guaranteed.
ReplyDeleteYes, I think you’d be better off getting a new machine. But to get a good one, you usually have to spend over $500. Or find a used machine on your local Craigslist or through your local newspaper. Avoid buying on Ebay. I’ve seen too many bad Ebay machines. My favorite inexpensive NEW machine is the new Bernette 35. They are only about $300, and they do an awesome buttonhole. Plus, you have control of the stitch width and it has a metal oscillating hook that won’t jam like a drop-in bobbin machine.
Keep me posted.
Greetings!
ReplyDeleteI have a Kenmore 1764180, which is a fantastic machine that I have used for years. I have been putting it through a lot of use recently, so it's a no-brainer to consider it in a need of a service. Last night I was sewing a fairly thick project and the needle became loudly stuck and stopped. Since then it won't sew a proper stitch. The bottom has extra thread and much of it is broken. No noise or anything, just bad stitching. I have fiddled with the upper tension and re-threaded it a number of times. Could it be I have knocked the timing off whack? Or is there anything else I can try before taking it in to my local shop?
Hi Weird Chylde,
ReplyDeleteMy first thought is that the bobbin case has been damaged. Can you remove the needle plate and pull the bobbin case out? If it’s got scratches and burrs on it, they can be polished out with a very fine sandpaper – about 400 grit.
My second thought is that the hook may have been damaged. The hook is the metal point that spins around the bobbin case. You can touch it with your finger to see if it has any rough spots on it. This can also be polished with a very fine sandpaper.
If neither of those apply, then the timing is probably off.
Good Luck to You!
Hi Mary,
ReplyDeleteI have a Pfaff Performance 5.0 - which I've loved for the last few years. Lately it won't hold a needle any smaller than a 90/14. Anything smaller (ie. 80/12, 70/10) falls right out. Any thoughts you might have would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Lojo,
ReplyDeleteMy first thought is that you may be using Singer needles. They’re a little smaller at the top. If you’ll use Schmetz or Bernina needles, they are worth paying a little more for.
My second thought is that the thumb screw or the hole that it screws into may be striped. Your Pfaff dealer could get you a new thumb screw. But if it’s the hole, you may have to have the whole needle bar replaced. This happens when you tighten the screw too tight, like if you use a screwdriver to tighten it.
Try some good needles first. I hope that’s all it is.
Hey there! I'm really sorry to bother you, but I just happened upon this post. I have a Husquvarna Prisma 990 that I got secondhand around half a year ago now, that just stopped doing anything but a straight stitch. I might take it into the shop, but there's a sinking feeling telling me that the motherboard's time has come. I'm trying to be optimistic and tell myself it's just that I was irresponsible and was trying too hard to sew through some fake fur, or that it's b.c I fell asleep sewing a few times and maybe now it's just overheated or something but my guts say no. What do you think, shop or no?
ReplyDeleteHi Raquiel,
ReplyDeleteYou could be right. I’ve seen a couple Prismas with a fried motherboard. They’re at that age, and they don’t make a replacement any more.
But…. If your local Viking/Husqvarna tech doesn’t charge you for just taking a look, it sure wouldn’t hurt to take it in -- just in case, there’s some small thing that you may have overlooked. It is possible that the side to side motion of the needle bar is frozen-up. Or… Husqvarnas are notorious for having thread tangles in the take-up. Sometimes the tangle is so bad that the needle bar can’t move side to side. Or… a cable may have disconnected from the needle bar stepping motor.
The up side to this, is that if your machine IS fried, you have an opportunity to buy a new machine!
If you’re sewing through fake fur or falling asleep while sewing, because you’ve got so much sewing to do, I’d recommend trying to find a used industrial machine. There’s a lot of fast straight-stitch machines out there. If you need more than straight-stitch, you may consider a Bernina 950. It’s got a good selection of stitches, sews faster than a regular domestic machine, but isn’t as heavy duty as an industrial. If you’re doing heavy duty sewing, do NOT get a plastic drop-in bobbin Viking/Husqvarna, or any other brand with a drop-in bobbin. It will jam, and you may say some bad words or even throw something. A Juki 2010Q is also a great semi-industrial machine, but only does straight-stitch.
Good Luck to you!
I have a Juki Exceed F400. Only a few years old, not used very much. Pulled it out today to sew and it sewed a few stitches, made a loud sound in the base, thread knotted up and hasn’t worked since. It was full of dust and lint, so I cleaned it all out. The main thread needle goes down into the feeder like it is supposed to, but come right back up- does not grab the bobbin thread. Did all the troubleshooting in the manual, but does not sew. Everything on it works except for the fact that the main thread will not grab the bobbin thread.
ReplyDeleteHi Jennifer,
ReplyDeleteThe timing is out. You’ll need to take it to the shop. Any machine with a drop-in bobbin will jam if you try to sew heavy fabric on it. Sometimes it throws the timing off and sometimes it just scars up the plastic bobbin case.
Thank you for your repsonse. Now to find a shop :)
DeleteHi!
ReplyDeleteI have a Singer Quantum stylist touch and just the other day it started going crazy and sewed into the plastic bobbin case! My needle got stuck but I managed to get it out and it’s now not sewing correctly at all. I was going to take it in but I was wondering if there was an easier fix.
Hi Destiny,
ReplyDeleteSometimes you can repair the bobbin case. Take it out and polish the rough spots with a very fine sandpaper (about 400 grit). Be gentle with it, it only needs a few passes with the sandpaper. If that doesn't fix the problem, you may need to buy a new bobbin case.
Any drop-in bobbin machine with a plastic bobbin case will not be able to sew heavy fabrics or thick layers.
I hope you're able to fix your machine.
Back in January 2018 I asked about my foot pedal not running the machine until it almost hits the bottom then the machine goes 80 mph. I took the machine back to the repair shop and the repair guy said the foot pedal was defective and I need a new one. He said any generic foot pedal will do. Pfaff foot pedals can run $100+ whereas a generic foot pedal is around $15. My husband can connect the wires to the pedal, but is it all right to purchase a generic pedal without cord and have the wires connected? Or should I stick with a Pfaff pedal and pay $100+?
ReplyDeleteWinnie Pratt
Hi Winnie,
ReplyDeleteIt depends on which foot pedal you have. Some of the Pfaff pedals have a fuse in them that’s important. Others may have 3 wires instead of two. If your repair shop says any pedal will do, they you may be alright with a generic one. The one we use at the shop is #072963. They look cheap and plastic, but they work really well – better than the cheap metal ones.
Hi, I have a Pfaff creative 2140, the rotary hook assembly keeps slipping out of position of the finger. I have adjusted the finger position a few times and taken it in to have it professionally timed and adjusted two or three times at a repair shop. It continues to happen after a few hours of sewing. Now the plastic rotary hook is worn down from slipping out of the finger i have to reposition it every few yards of sewing. Any suggestions? is there something I'm doing to cause this to keep happening?
ReplyDeleteHi Susanne,
ReplyDeleteI had a similar problem with the same machine. We decided that the metal couldn’t hold the setting. It just isn’t made with a very good quality metal. The screw hasn’t got anything strong enough to hold onto.
It’s time to get a better machine. I don’t know what your budget is, but for less than $1000 you can get a new Bernina. Or you can usually find an old Kenmore at the thrift store for less than $25.
I just bought a new Juki sewing machine in Feb. of this year. First, the feet would not attach without falling off. Got new foot and new thing for the foot to attach to. That is good but now it is making a clacking noise when I sew. I am frustrated!! What can be wrong?
ReplyDeleteI have a VSM Singer 348 and now will not sew. Any ideas? The belt is intact, it was threaded properly. The light comes on so there is power to the machine. It hums but nothing else.
ReplyDeleteA sewing machine can be quite the investment in both time and money, so it really does make sense that you'd want to be thorough before taking your machine to a repair shop. I think it is especially helpful that the article recommends cleaning and oiling the bobbin first since that is a step that many people miss. Of course, if none of the article's suggestions work, and your machine is still busted, then you'll definitely want to take it to a professional repair shop. http://www.singerfactorydistributor.com/services.htm
ReplyDeleteI have a Pfaff sewing machine. It is not one of the electronic ones. It is heavy metal with push buttons. The one problem I realized awhile back is that the bar that the sewing feet attach to just started sliding down even though I have the lever taken up. What can me and my sweetie do to fix it? It is an pretty old machine and I wanted to see if we could fix it at home rather taking to a shop. Our nearest shop is around 60 miles away.
ReplyDeleteHi! I just wanted to send you a quick note to say thank you for this post. I've been hunting for a good, cheap sewing machine for a couple of years (I'm on a very small budget and could never find something that was both cheap enough and in good enough condition to justify spending the money on it). Last week I was in one of the local thrift stores and asked the staff if they ever got sewing machines in. One of the ladies pointed out the machine they had currently sitting behind the desk (a Kenmore 1560) and said that it had just come in but they hadn't had a chance to test it yet. She offered to test it then and there if I was interested in buying it. After about 5 minutes she came to the conclusion that the bobbin case was broken and the entire machine would be going in the trash, unless I wanted to take it home and see if I could find the parts to get it working again. I absolutely love pulling things apart and either repairing them or using the parts in craft projects so I jumped on the opportunity. She mentioned your blog as a great resource in case I needed it. 20 minutes later I was in one of the local sewing stores asking about bobbin cases, only to be told by one of the mechanics that he had recently had the same model in and had scrapped it as unsalvagable, but had kept the usable parts from it just in case. He had a bobbin case in perfect condition and he said I could just have it since he didn't pay anything for it in the first place.
ReplyDeleteToday I finally got the chance to pull it all out and try to get it working. I immediately discovered that both the manuals it came with were in French, which I don't read, and I had no idea where to start. Your blog post and photos helped me to work out what I was doing.
I now have an excellent sewing machine in perfect working order and thanks to your advice and some very good timing and luck, I didn't pay a cent for it. Thank you!
Hi, I bought a New Home model 373 at a garage sale for $40. I was told it worked but when I got it home and tried it, it will not feed the fabric through. I cleaned and oiled it, checked the tension button to ensure it was engaged adequately, bobbin winder is not engaged and feed dogs are up. Any ideas? Would it be worth replacing the feed dogs and trying that or should I just take it to a sewing shop and have it professionally cleaned and adjusted. I have no idea if the machine is is worth putting any money into it.
ReplyDeleteI have an a Singer Fashion Mate model 360. When I plug it in the light goes on but the motor doesn't run (not even a hum). Is that something I cold fix myself?
ReplyDeleteHello - I have a Frister Rossman cub 4 - always been reliable & best of all simple to use. Today it was oiled & cleaned & now it won't sew any zigzag or anything from special selector. The needle & bobbin remain threaded & the needle goes through the motions but it will only produce a straight stitch - can you help at all? Many thanks
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDeleteHow do you know when to replace the belts on your machine?
ReplyDeleteWhen a belt starts to shred, it’s time to replace it. Or when it gets too narrow to grab the pulley.
ReplyDeleteLeave a leather belt on as long as you can. They’re the best!
You also have to consider what you’ll replace it with. We generally replace belts with an orange lug belt. They come in 2 grades – regular and premium. The premium ones are pretty good, but the regular ones get brittle and fall apart pretty quickly. If you scroll down my “Wall of Shame,” you’ll see a lug belt that has fallen apart. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/p/hall-of-shame.html
If the belt is in good shape, you probably just need to adjust how tight it is. Sometimes loosening gives a better grip than tightening -- especially on a Singer Featherweight.
I have a Kenmore 158.14100 & just replaced the bobbin winder (new O-ring didn't fix the problem.) The thread isn't distributed evenly along the bobbin as it winds, and the thread is extremely loose on the bobbin. Suggestions please?
ReplyDeleteHi Donna,
ReplyDeleteBe sure your thread comes from the spool, then wraps around the tensioner in a figure 8, before you take it to the bobbin winder. If you’re doing that, then there may be something wrong with the tensioner. Sometimes the bobbin winder post gets bent, then the bobbin will wind unevenly. Or maybe you’re using the wrong bobbin for the machine. You should be using a Singer 15 class bobbin, with 10 holes on each flat end.
Good Luck to You!
Thanks so much for your help with the bobbin winder. Now my Kenmore 158.14100 has a new problem. The machine started loud, rhythmic squeaking. Then when I pressed the foot control, the motor hummed but nothing moved. I hope this is a fixable problem.
ReplyDeleteHi Donna,
DeleteFirst, remove the bobbin case and hook. Then try to turn the handwheel. Sometimes the jam happens in the hook.
Second, it could be the central pulley. There’s a belt that comes from the motor up to the central pulley. And there’s another belt that comes from the handwheel down to the central pulley. That central pulley is notorious for freezing up. To get to it, you need to remove the cover on the end with the handwheel. Loosen the motor mount to loosen the belts. Then work some WD-40 into it. Remember to always remove the WD-40 after it’s done its job.
Good Luck! And let me know what you figure out.
It was the central pulley. My machine is running smoother & quieter than it has in years. Thank you SO much for your help. I love this site.
DeleteGood morning
ReplyDeleteI am hoping that my sewing machine can be repaired after trying all of the above but I would like to get a second one and want to start looking at reconditioned ones. Could you guide me where to start please.
My favorite machines are Berninas. If you can find a refurbished 830 or 930, you’d have a great machine. You can probably find them for less than $400. The one thing we check when buying an older Bernina is the camstack gear and the vertical shaft gear. They can be replaced, but it’s an expensive repair. You could also get a used, newer Bernina for about the same price. The 1008 to 1031 models are great mechanical machines. The 125 to 150 are great computerized machines. You could probably get any of these for around $400. And they’d be well worth the money.
DeleteMy second favorite machines are the old Kenmores, like what you have. I can usually find them at thrift stores for less than $25. The ones that are good have the front-loading bobbin, not a top-loading drop-in bobbin. They also have built-in stitches, not plastic stitch cams that you load into the top of the machine. And you want to at least have straight-stitch zig-zag, broken zig-zag or serpentine, blind hem, and an edge finish stitch.
A good place to look for a used machine is on Craigslist. Craigslist is divided into local regions, so you could go look at the machine and try if before you buy. Or, you can check your local newspaper classified ads.
Good Luck and let me know if there’s anything else I can help with.
Thank you for your suggestions. My husband has just found a 830 which cost £299 in the UK. It didn't have a case but has lots of feet and came with new needles and oil. It was from a Bernina dealer and has a 2 year guarantee. Now I just have to learn how to use it. A short time later my Toyota 5000 was returned all fixed and it was the bobbin finger that caused the problem.
DeleteYou’ve done well! It’s always great to have a back-up machine.
DeleteThanks,
DeleteI am curious to know the difference between the 830 and 930 since 930 is also available.
The 930 has a “needle-up clutch” and a “basting device.” Sometimes the basting device freezes up, and it takes a lot of work to get it free again. The needle-up clutch tells the machine to always stop with the needle in the up position. And the foot control has a “rock-back” with your heel that will also bring the needle up or down. The foot control is pretty great!
DeleteThe 830 is the best mechanical machine ever made. But the 930 has just a little bit of electronics that makes it a very sweet machine. I had to choose between keeping an 830 or a 930, and I kept the 930. Just make sure the basting device is moving freely. It’s always a plus if the 930 has the teeth feed dogs instead of the crisscross feed dogs. The teeth just feed a lot better.
Either way, you can’t loose.
Thank you for that. I may look out for a 930 out of curiosity and at my leisure. Right now I have to learn out to use the 830.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteDo you have any suggestions please
DeleteCo-incidentally my repairman was just returning my Toyota 5000 when I arrived home with my Bernina 830 Record. He had actually serviced the Bernina too a short time ago. I have found with my Toyota that it is hard to maintain a perfect stitch and I have heard that the Bernina excels at this. I am in a situation now where the Toyota is giving a perfect stitch at the moment but the Bernina is not. At the shop a sample of calico on a demonstration showed a good stitch. Now I am using lightweight wool and a gutterman thread it is not which has surprised me. The salesperson is uncertain what to advise since he did not service the machine. Any suggestions to a rather nervous amateur might help me to get set up. The running of the machine sounds good and every part feels and looks of an excellent quality.
You’ve got a wonderful machine!
DeleteI have a couple ideas for you. Are you using a cone of Guterman thread? If so, use a cone holder on the table behind the machine. Or cut a plastic soda pop bottle so a cone of thread will fit inside, then feed the thread up through the top opening. Cone thread needs to feed from the top of the cone.
If the bobbin is getting stuck, it may not be the right bobbin, or the bobbin may be bent, or sometimes the bobbin case gets bent. When winding a bobbin, the thread needs to wrap around the tensioner in a figure 8, before it goes to the bobbin winder.
If the needle is going up and down while winding a bobbin, the bobbin winder clutch needs to be cleaned. Here’s a link on how to do that: http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/p/bobbin-winder-clutch.html To get inside of your 830 to do this, you need to gently place the machine on it’s face (I like to put a thick towel on the table first). There’s a screw on the bottom that releases the right end panel. To release the belt, there’s a big hex screw below the lower pulley, that needs to be loosened with an allen wrench. Then remove the handwheel and clean the shaft, the metal ring and inside the handwheel. Put new sewing machine oil on the shaft and put it back together.
The bobbin/hook area needs to be cleaned and oiled about every 3 hours of actual sewing time. So once or twice per project. Here’s a link on how to do that: http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/p/how-to-clean-and-oil-bobbin-and-feed-dog.html
Were you able to change the needle? A little WD-40 in the hole just above the needle may help with that.
I hope you’ll be sewing away and having a great time with your new machine.
Thank you for your encouragement. I am beginning to fall in love.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteDear Annette
ReplyDeleteThanks for you help I can now check things out with confidence.
It would be a great idea to have your local technician give the machine a full service. There are so many little things that can be done to make that machine perfect.
DeleteHello Annette
ReplyDeleteI will talk to my local technician. Could you advise on what I can expect with this machine for stitches please. I was not expecting to fiddle with the tension when changing fabric from cotton to wool for instance. I had heard that Bernina's have self adjusting tension mechanisms is that the case for these vintage ones?
Your tensioner is there for you to be able to adjust. When I sew with polyester thread, I tighten my tensions—top and bottom. I have control of it, not the machine. When I sew Velcro, the tension is different than if I sew cotton fabric into a quilt. When I do machine quilting, I can change it so I don’t get eyelashes. The old machines have never had “self-adjusting tensions.” All that says to me is that I have no control of the tensions. The newer Berninas do have self-adjusting tensions, but only by what stitch you select. The tension for a decorative stitch will be different than a button hole stitch, or a zig-zag, or for machine embroidery. That’s how they have programmed the computer. But I still can adjust the tension how I want it to be. Because I might want to use 50 wt Aurifil cotton thread instead of 40 wt Metrosene polyester.
DeleteCheck the page on how to adjust your tension at this link: http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/p/how-to-balance.html
Hi. I hope you can help me. whenever i sew the upper thread got stuck and wrapped around the bobbin casing?
ReplyDeleteUsually, that means 1) you have a bad bobbin 2) the wrong bobbin or 3) your bobbin case is damaged.
DeleteThanks, I'll research the singer model 648 bobbin.
DeleteI have a Bernina 1001 and am having trouble with my lower thread tension even after making sure all is clean and threaded correctly. It's discouraging and frustrating as I had my machine tuned up last fall and have used it very little since.
DeleteThe lower thread basically looks like a flat line with the upper thread looping down. I have tried loosening the bobbin tension and increasing the upper tension in several iterations. I have tried different thread and material.
Can you offer suggestions? Thank you!
Hi Peggy,
DeleteIt sounds like the upper thread isn’t in the tension. Did you re-thread with the presser foot up? When the presser foot is up, the tension disks are open. When the presser foot is down, the tension disks are closed tight.
Try re-threading one more time. If that doesn’t work, there may be something caught in the upper tension. To get that out, turn your upper tension to 0. Then fold a piece of cotton or flannel fabric in half and pull it through the tensions on both sides of the center disk. Or if you have a can of air or air compressor, you could blow it out real good. I’ve seen spider silk come out of tensions on a few machines.
Also, there may be damage on the hook or on the needle plate.
Let me know what you figure out.
hi Annette, my Mom just got a Janome hd1000, unboxed it today, and its like the clutch wont engage....she wound the bobbin no problem, and the machine sounds like it *wants* to start sewing, but just doesnt turn over....
ReplyDeletehelp?
First, remove the bobbin case and hook. Sometimes it gets jammed and just needs to be repositioned into the correct spot.
DeleteIf it’s been sitting in a warehouse for a long time, the oil may have solidified. Can you turn the handwheel with your hand? … and make the needle go up and down? I’ve seen a few Janomies with a frozen-up needle bar. That’s where I would start trying to unfreeze the machine. Use a little WD-40 on the needle bar and try to get it to move. Since it’s a new machine, it shouldn’t take much to get it moving again. Always remove the WD-40 completely, then re-oil with clear “sewing machine oil.”
Another thought is that the knob just isn’t tightened enough, or maybe the metal ring inside the clutch could be turned the wrong way.
I hope you’re able to get your machine sewing!
Bless you for being a beacon of hope for all us frustrated sewers! Can I pick your brain? I have a Singer auto reel and the needle bar swings very easily side to side anytime during..but it does do a straight stitch a wonky one and the middle position seems 'off' a tad..if you look at the throat plate it's super scratched up. Yes this machine was given to me :) I can not find any information on the internet about this problem but I am sure others have given up because of it. I am handi-capable..so your guidance would be appreciated! Help me save an antique!:)
ReplyDeleteIt sounds like you have a Singer Touch and Sew machine.
DeleteThe first thing to do is to put a new needle in. Then check that the stitch width and needle position knobs are turned to their correct positions.
Most machine needle bars will swing side to side, and that’s alright. Some needle bars have a spring that pushes them back to the right during a zig-zag stitch. Sometimes we need to adjust the spring to make it tighter, so it will return to a straight stitch. The spring looks like a flat, curved piece about 4” long, and is attached to the needle bar. There’s a screw that loosens, then you push the spring one way or the other, then re-tighten the screw.
Also, the mechanism that creates the zig-zag can get frozen up with old oil, and won’t allow the needle bar to go back to a straight stitch. If that’s the case, we have to use a solvent to remove the old oil. We use WD-40 at the shop. But you have to be sure to remove all of the WD-40 before you re-oil. Here’s a link to how we do it: http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/2014/12/using-wd-40-on-sewing-machines.html To see the parts that make the zig-zag stitch, you remove the top of the machine and watch which parts move when you move the stitch width knob. The frozen part may be anywhere from the knob, through the top of the machine, and back down to the needle. Spray a bit of WD-40 on every part that’s supposed to move. Then move the parts by hand or by machine until everything is moving like it should. It may take some time.
Let me know what you figure out.
Hi lovely,
ReplyDeleteWell I purchased what looks to be a Singer 401 for cheap as it had no foot pedal, and huzzah I just happened to have one that I had just wired up for my 99k.
Well I tried the machine at the sellers house and it worked! So I took it home and have it a clean oil and grease up as per the manual. I then plugged it in, pressed the pedal and it struggled to go, then just as quickly something blew :-( I dug deeper to find the Interferance suppressor has blown on it. Boo. I thort oh easy I will go to the electrical shop and get a replacement,ha!yep not so easy a fix. So now I'm stuck, struggling to find a replacement anywhere in the world. Can it even be replaced? Can it be replaced with something else? Or is my machine dead forever? It would seem like such a waste to not get her up and running. So I'm not sure on what to do next or how to find a working part for it :-/
Any suggestions? Thank you.
Upper thread broke while sewing on my Brother sewing machine. Thread I’d wrapped around a gear near take up lever. It is very hard to turn the wheel by hand and I can’t get the thread loose from the gear. What can I do?
ReplyDeleteOn the above question about the thread getting caught, I should add the machine is a Brother XL5340
ReplyDeleteThanks for the clarification! That’s a great little machine.
DeleteRemove the left end cover, by removing the screw. Then you can get inside and remove the thread with tweezers and a big pin. If it’s caught in the take-up linkage (which is inside the machine at the end of the take-up lever), you can loosen the screw to help you get the thread out. This is a special screw. Usually screws are righty tighty/lefty loosey. This screw is opposite. You’ll turn it to the right to loosen it. Don’t remove the screw, just loosen it.
Also, take the bobbin case out. Remove the race cover and pull the hook out. Sometimes the hook gets jammed on a tangle of thread, and that may be helpful.
Good Luck to You!
I have a friend's Singer Heavy Duty sewing machine. I brought it home to clean it and see if I could figure out the tension issue. The first thing I wanted to do was pull out the bobbin case and give it a good cleaning. I can't get the bobbin case out. I looked at a video and she just pulled it out easily. Mine is stuck. Should I loosed the 2 screws that secure the metal plate that extends over the bobbin case?
ReplyDeleteHi Judy,
DeleteYou probably don’t want to loosen the two screws. If you’ll rotate the hook by turning the handwheel, it comes out easier at a certain spot. I just turn and pull, until it comes out.