I use WD-40 on sewing machines, almost every day at work. However, I don't use it as a lubricant, I use it as a solvent. WD-40 breaks down the old, gummy oil very well. If you're not equipped to remove the WD-40, it will continue to break down the oil. At work, we use an air compressor and flannel rags to remove the WD-40 and the gunk it dissolves. If you don't have an air compressor, you can use a can of air -- but it has to be a full can with some good pressure.
Don't use WD-40 on certain longarm quilting machines and industrial sewing machines. Some of these have porous bearings that will hold onto the WD-40.
The procedure goes like this...
1) Blow out all the lint with an air compressor.
2) Generously spray the gummed-up area with WD-40.
3) Work the mechanisms until they are moving freely.
4) Blow out the WD-40 and gunk with an air compressor. This takes a while. You continue to blow until there are no more wet spots. Turn the hand wheel to get all sides of the sprayed parts.
5) Wipe up the mess with flannel rags.
6) Go back and blow some more with the air compressor.
7) Apply new oil. Only use clear "sewing machine oil," not 3-in-1 oil (or sewing machine grease except for very specific spots).
Some people will say that "someone" told them to NEVER use WD-40 on a sewing machine. But I have to ask, who is "someone?" And was "someone" talking about using it as a lubricant? This "someone" LOVES to use WD-40 on sewing machines! It works very well to remove the gummy stuff.
I've also seen where "someone" used WD-40, and it made matters worse. I think they probably didn't use enough WD-40, and didn't get the gunk dissolved completely. So, the gunk was still there.
I've only had 5 years (almost) of experience, but have never had a problem with WD-40 making things worse.
Some may say to just keep oiling the machine, and it will eventually break loose. Nonsense! The old, gummy oil is still there! The old gummy oil needs to be removed, and WD-40 is the tool for the job.
OK, there's my very own, personal, private, take on the WD-40 controversy. But then, I tend to figure things out and think for myself. I know I'm not the only sewing machine mechanic who uses it!
Wow, great Blog, I really appreciate your thought process and having it explained properly, thank you!
ReplyDeleteGeminy Sewing Machine
Can we use this on HA-1 Sewing Machine as well with the ordinary machine???
ReplyDeleteIf the mechanical parts on the machine are gummed-up, yes, the WD-40 should break it up and remove it. However, if the industrial machine has an oil pump, you don’t want to get WD-40 in the pump system. That would continue to break down the oil, and could be very bad.
DeleteWD-40 is mostly a solvent, which will evaporate, and thus not fit for lubrication. But how is it breaking down oil? On what is that based?
DeleteHave you ever tried it?
DeleteYes I did. It helps to free the stuff (most of the times, not always). But you can't reach all the places it went into, so you never can remove everything. After loosening I use a white-oil (sewing machine oil or Ballistol). I have not seen any breaking down of that oil, that's why I ask.
DeleteMaybe I'm just assuming that because it will dissolve the yellow gunk, that it will also dissolve new oil. I'm not a scientist, just an observer.
DeleteWD40 doesn't dissolve it, but softens it. The solvents do this and they evaporate over time. This is something you can see when you try this out on a machine and give it time to dry again. It will then freeze up again. Only by moving the machine the gunk will break away. For a test you could also spray some WD-40 on a clean surface and see what happened after a few days: only a small amount of oil is left behind,as ~20% is mineral oil in WD-40.
DeleteInteresting.
DeleteWe thoroughly blow it out with the air compressor, after we get things moving. I guess removing the gunk when it's loose and the WD-40 is still wet, is the key.
Indeed, removing WD40 is key. Also the reason for your red remark: when it goes into a porous bearing it takes longer to evaporate. In the meantime it makes the oil in this bearings thinner and thus less lubrication.
DeleteBTW, porous bearings are in many SM, starting already in the 1950 era. So putting new oil in after cleaning with WD40 and waiting for it to evaporate is very important. Better is to use (thin) white oil & heat to get the gunk out there, although it will take longer before the machine starts moving.
I have to admit that I was like most people and thought the WD40 was for lubrication. That is cool that you used it for a different purpose though. How well did other substances work in getting the gummy stuff off?
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Your style is so exclusive compared to other individuals. Thank you for posting when you have the chance, guess I would just make this bookmarked. GrandmaLikesToSew
ReplyDeleteHi Annette, I'm wondering if you have any experience with hand-crank machines? I have a very old Singer 241 zig-zag. I just had it serviced but the resistance when cranking is still very strong. The mechanic says it might have been dropped at some point, I do know it had this problem even when I bought it (used) in 1990. I have tried extra oiling, maybe it's time to try de-gumming. Any other suggestions?
ReplyDeleteIf it’s been dropped, the main shaft may have been bent, and there’s nothing you can do about that. But it’s definitely worth trying to de-gum it with some WD-40.
DeleteThanks, will try!
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ReplyDeleteThanks for adding the use of WD-40 as a Solvent. It will be easy to use because of, procedure you given it.
ReplyDeleteIt loos like home remedies.
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ReplyDeleteHi, Annette. I recently took classes to become a sewing machine mechanic myself. I am really enjoying it! I am intrigued by your use of WD-40. Is it safe to use on the plastic parts inside a pattern selector module? (Singer 6235) I have a customer whose machine is making a clicking noise in there. I can see what is sticking, and when I heat it with a hair dryer, the part works fine with no clicking. I have both WD-40 and an air compressor. Just hesitant to do this without some advice from someone who has done it before. Thanks so much for any help you can provide. I have so much more to learn!!
ReplyDeleteYes, I would use WD-40. It has a way of penetrating. The air from the air compressor penetrates pretty well, too. So it’s a great way to remove it.
ReplyDeleteThanks! This is the first time I have seen this situation. The pattern cam stack is horizontal in this machine. On the front side of the cam (facing the pattern selector dial), there are three springs that rotate on the disc. The disc seems to get "hung up," so one of the springs (consistently the same one) stretches out and the disc stalls. Then the spring snaps back together and the disc rotates again. I cannot find any diagram or description that explains to me what these springs do or why one might stick. Without removing the entire pattern selector module, there doesn't seem to be any way to fully examine the part. (Mind you, this does not affect the stitching functions of the machine. It produces consistent, beautifully balanced stitches. ) ???
DeleteHi Pat,
ReplyDeleteOnce you get a mechanical machine moving, the more you use it, the smoother it get. That wonky spring thing just might go away after a full day of sewing.
Hi Annette, I have stumbled onto your blog as the stitch selector switch on my Toyota RS2000 clicks and turns, but no longer changes the stitch or moves the needle. It's stuck somewhere between a zig zag and a straight stitch which produces just a hopelessly wonky line of otherwise perfect stitching! I have taken the cover off and am looking at all the metal discs behind the stitch selector knob and wondering if I should have a go with the WD-40/ compressed air then apply sewing machine oil. It does look gunky in places, but could this be the sewing machine grease that you speak of? It has a consistency similar to petroleum jelly. Can I do further damage by trying this? Many thanks for your time.
ReplyDeleteHi Anna-Marie,
ReplyDeleteIt sounds like the tracer that rides on the stitch cams isn’t moving like it should. Using WD-40 may be the answer. When the grease has a consistency of petroleum jelly, it’s OK to leave there. When it turns into a hard wax is when it needs to come off. I don’t know if you can see where the tracer rides on the cams, but it’s usually on a shaft, and there’s a spring that helps it move. If you could see in there, you might see an amber colored, almost clear, tacky, grease mess, similar to the crud on an old frying pan. When that shaft is gummed-up, you can’t get the stitches to form like they should.
Another thought is maybe the tracer isn’t lined-up with the cams. There should be a way to adjust that, but every machine is so different.
I hope you’re able to get your machine stitchin
Thanks so much for your time and advice, Annette. I will let you know if I get anywhere with it.
ReplyDeleteGood to know, I have used WD40 but not anymore, thanks. my page
ReplyDeleteHi my name is Eadter, thanks for sharing your knowledge! I'm new to sewing. Have a 1975 Singer Fashion Mate. It has been serviced but will slow and gets hot and freezes with a squeal after about 15" of hem. I've seen a lot of help requests online for Fashion Mate machines various model #s. Can you advise me?
ReplyDeleteSorry. My name is Easter
ReplyDeleteHi Easter,
ReplyDeleteWhen there's a squeal, it needs some WD-40. It's hard to tell where the frozen shaft or linkage is. I'd spray the take-up area and the main shaft (in the top) at both ends. If that doesn't find the squeal, then spray the bottom shaft and linkages.
Good Luck to you!
Good advice! I am a bicycle mechanic, and the WD-40 "controversy" is the same with bicycles. Great for cleaning old caked-on grease; never as a lubricant; gotta remove ALL the WD-40 before applying fresh lubricant. (Literally anything else is better on a chain.)
ReplyDeleteI think customers are often told to NEVER use WD-40, because that is easier advice to give than a long nuanced explanation. Your explanation, however, is spot on from my experience.
Loving this blog. Working backwards through posts, and having a ball. Best Wishes, Chris :)
Thanks, Chris!
ReplyDeleteAny thoughts on using WD40 on a knitting machine. I know they are so different but always see the same thing " someone said never use WD40 on a knitting machine." The machine I have is manual no electronics. Look forward to your opinion.
ReplyDeleteWhen I think of a knitting machine, I think of metal latch hooks in plastic grooves. I had a child's knitting machine when I was a child, but that's the only experience I've had with a knitting machine. I worry about the WD-40 affecting the plastic. If the latch-hooks are dragging in the plastic grooves, I wonder if sudsy water and a toothbrush might work better? Dawn dish soap works better than WD-40 sometimes. You'd have to dry it quickly so things didn't get rusty. Nothing beats an air compressor for drying things thoroughly.
ReplyDeleteNever worked on a knitting machine, but there's my 2 cents.
Thank you for replying. My machine is all metal, I have used it for years with no problems. Was just thinking about that "someone" that you've mentioned, who says "Never use WD40 on a sewing/knitting machine.
ReplyDeleteMy Mum's Bernina 707 has been unused for years. I set it up and it sews for a few inches then seizes (the motor runs but the needle doesn't move). If I turn the handwheel manually the needle goes up and down fine. If I keep turning (it feels really tight) I can feel it loosen off and the machine will run again and sew fine for another few inches. I've stripped it down and oiled everything that should move with Bernina oil but there's no change. Any thoughts?
ReplyDeleteHI Rachel,
ReplyDeleteThere are two things to check first. Remove the right end cover, below the handwheel. Check to see if the belt is old and hard. If so, replace it. Then set the belt tension so it pulls with it’s full strength. Then check the driver gear, which is a small, white gear behind the bobbin/hook driver. Sometimes it gets crud stuck in it. If you turn the handwheel all the way to one side, remove any crud you see in that side. Then turn the handwheel the other direction and remove any crud on that side.
Sometimes just oiling isn’t enough. When a sewing machine sits unused for a long time, the old oil turns into tar. We remove it with WD-40. Remove the top, take-up cover and throat plate and spray everything that moves, generously with WD-40. Then run the machine and/or move the parts by hand until things are moving freely. This includes the stitch selector lever on the top, right. It’s very important to remove all of the WD-40 when the machine is moving freely. We use an air compressor and flannel rags. It may take 10-15 minutes to remove all of it. Then re-oil.
It’s a great little machine! I hope you’re able to get it sewing.
Thank you so very much for this great blog!I recently picked up a Kenmore 17800 with a drop in bobbin. I've sewn for years and refurbished some machines but never had any experience with a drop in set up. The machine was gritty with dirt and packed with lint in the bobbin area. I've cleaned as much as I can reach but still see dirt in the bottom of the bobbin pocket. Would WD-40 be appropriate to use down in there? I'm concerned about it not washing the dirt out and also about being able to remove all of it afterward. Thanks in advance for your reply.
ReplyDeleteYes, you can use WD-40 just about anywhere on that old Kenmore. Just remember to completely remove it before re-oiling.
ReplyDeleteOk! Thanks.
DeleteLove reading this as I was cleaning a baby lock 5280E. It was given to my daughter about 10 years ago and she never used it. No she has decided to start sewing garments instead of only sewing to patch. Everything was really dry and looked clean, so I decided just a little oil as nothing would move much. Didn't work much. Took the machine apart and found fabric stuck in the channel and side groove of the driveshaft. Much work later got it out and I could turn the fly wheel with no resistance. Oiled everything, cleaned with a paintbrush and long tweezers, cleaned the gunk that the oil dislodged, re-oiled with clean oil, and the fly wheel and everything was moving great! Put back together, hooked up cord and pedal and it ran...kinda. It runs quickly then slows and dies off. Lift foot try again and repeat. Why is it doing this? The belt is of course old but did not feel hard and no cracking. Teeth are hitting grooves fine. It just acts like it gets power that slow and dies off. Any suggestions as to what I should look for?
ReplyDeleteWhen we get a machine that acts like your Babylock, we remove the covers and spray the whole thing with WD-40. You never know where the bind is, but when it lets go, you can sure tell. It might be in the take-up, or in the feed dog linkage, or one of the shafts or eccentrics. We'll run the machine while we spray it. You can hear the pitch of the machine's noise change as it lets go.
DeleteWe've recently started using Tri-flow in the spray can. That can get things moving without the WD-40 mess. But it might take a while longer.
Good Luck to You!
Regarding the post on august 31 2019, could possibly the engine be the problem? Assuming there is no gunky buildup anywhere, would you not assume the motor is to blame?
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for this comment thread. I have acquired a Singer 14U34B _knockoff_ (Yamata FY14U4AD but identical insides and operation) that has not been turned on in at least 5 years, maybe 10. Gears turned, so I plugged it in tried carefully some rotations, motor runs but smells old electronics. Full of lint and oil. I am going to clean it down with WD-40 and oil. I recon if it runs smoothly then the knockoff motor may still let me down.
Our first assumption is that it is gummed up with old oil. It's pretty normal for the motor to smell funny at first. But, if you can turn the handwheel, then it isn't gummed up. If you can turn the handwheel, but it still won't run when you push the foot control, I'd suspect the foot control. If the motor starts smoking, then we know it's the motor. There's a difference between the smell of a motor that hasn't been used in a long time, and the smoky smell of the motor burning up. Another thing that you'll want to check is the belt. If the belt is loose, it makes the motor work harder, and that can burn up the motor.
DeleteYou've got a good plan. Clean it up with WD-40, re-oil, and then I'd add check the belt.
Good Luck to You!
Hello, thank you for your thoughts on the cleaning of the Yamata.. It's a serger. I did open up the serger, and now I am confused. There is no residue of gummed up oil or any oil of any kind on the inside. Is there such a thing as an oil-less serger? I do not dare to start oiling in case this hurts it. The belt seems good enough, the motor runs fine, and I think maybe it feels a tiny bit sluggish and rough when I turn it by hand. Ran some test runs and felt for heat on the inside afterwards, no heat. I am going to google around, but wanted to ask you too.
ReplyDeleteI have to add, the lenghty manual does not mention oil at all. Does not say it's oil free and does not mention oil under maintenance.
DeleteHi HooHaa,
DeleteThe Yamato is an industrial serger. It will definitely use oil. I've not worked on industrial sergers, but have on industrial sewing machines. Some industrial machines have an oil reservoir to keep pumping the oil through continually. You may not be able to see any residue, but it is likely there. At the shop, we've gone to using Tri-flow in the spray can. You might want to try that before you use the WD-40.
Good Luck to You!
Oiling done, and whoa! what a difference! I used a fine small brush and added dabs of oil on every moving part throughout several times while turning, and little by little the action completely changed its feel - getting more and more flowy. No doubt this machine needed oil, this machine was bone dry. The biggest difference was oiling the arm that holds the upper looper, but every bit og the inside also needed oil.
DeleteGreat! Now you can get some serious serging done!
DeleteThanks for your post! I stumbled upon it while googling remedies for gunked-up gears. I acquired a Singer 750, and it runs, but has some resistance and is much noisier than it should be when the pedal is used. So I opened it up and found gelled-up oil and all kinds of residue. It has a service sticker that indicates it has only sat idle for a few years, but apparently that’s long enough to accumulate some mess! I plan to spray it down with WD-40 and then an air compressor, as you suggested. What other tools do you recommend to remove the buildup? Just the cleaning brush that comes with it and a cloth?
ReplyDeleteI just thought I'd throw this in her for fun. When I got married in 1954, my Mother-In-Law taught me to sew. I wanted a sewing machine like hers (A Singer, probably from the early forties) Found one in a second hand shop. I decided about forty years to get a new one. Got a new Sears with a lot of features. Gave the Singer to my daughter, who was not a serious sewer, but I figured she could use it to do repairs, etc: ... Point of this post? That old Singer still works!
ReplyDeleteThose old Singers are gems!
DeleteHi there and thank you so much for sharing your expert knowledge on our Serger problems .
ReplyDeleteI have been oiling a jammed Bernette 234 and managed to free up the flywheel once reading your comment that the flywheel goes in one direction! Yay ! A yet to be resolved problem remains which I am hoping you will be able to help me with .
I cannot raise or lower the pressure foot. The pressure foot lifting lever does not engage with the piece inside the machine which would make this happen -this piece appears to be too high to connect with the lever. The lever is plastic but does not appear to be broken or worn . I would really appreciate any tips you may have regarding this problem.
Interesting.
ReplyDeleteWe thoroughly blow it out with the air compressor, after we get things moving. I guess synthetic motor oil removing the gunk when it's loose and the WD-40 is still wet, is the key.
Hello! I have learned a lot from reading this site so I will wait for the next post ...... wonderful
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